Xbox One Test Chip

Xbox One Test Chip Aktuelle Hardware-Tests

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Xbox One Test Chip

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Xbox One Test Chip Video

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I'm not suggesting that is you - I'm suggesting that I have no way of knowing, so sometimes people ask twice, in different ways.

My experience level with electronics is pretty basic but I did take the time to research common XBOX problems before I started removing parts.

I think I am ready to go buy some parts and see if I can make any difference with this thing. I'm having fun here so I want to keep trying to fix this thing.

Those are the parts I know of. To figure out what a surface mount capacitor is if it's unmarked, would it make sense to remove a few of them and average the capacitance value of them?

Are they polarized if they are not marked? I can make note of how they're connected to ensure I test the right polarity with them removed from the board.

I can then replace those too and make sure everything is within spec. Unfortunately I only have general info, I don't know what others would do, but I would assume all resistors are working, unless I knew the board may have been bent, or if there was discoloration - I've never seen a resistor fail otherwise.

But if you wish to replace or test it first, out-of-circuit measurement should match to within a few percent of the marking on it some tiny resistors will have no marking.

The last digit is usually the number of zeros to add to the previous digits. For surface-mount capacitors, those are ceramic types, and they don't fail in operation either, although they can definitely fail if cracked, e.

I believe that is far more likely with tiny capacitors, i. The largest ones in the photo may be anything from 1uF to 10uF or something, but it's a huge guess, and any IC datasheet for the DC-DC converter circuit should be checked.

Probably the voltage rating for them is 6. The smaller capacitors I have no idea, it would be too much guesswork, they could be nF or 10nF or anything else, and it needs the IC datasheet to be consulted, or a known working one to be measured.

Sometimes that is luck, since the entire part number won't be marked on the IC - so google may help on that, or if anyone has a components list in that area.

Also, those capacitors are likely of type 'X7R'. Often the larger ones are not cheap. If you think one is faulty, then the capacitance of a known working one could be measured out-of-circuit since the three DC-DC converter circuits look identical - they are just set at different voltages.

The capacitors are likely identical value, to reduce BoM costs. From what I can tell, I might have jumped the gun guessing a power issue.

It might have been doing a boot loop due to the APU needing to be reflowed. I tried to do that, but I didn't give it much heat and it may have failed to reflow the solder.

It may be the APU actually dead, but that's pretty rare. Others on the Internet seem to think it's APU related.

Have you given up on this project? I get these in all the time and while quite often they are fixable, sometimes they aren't.

Just wondering if you ever figured out the problem for sure. Let me know if you get a chance. I don't know what the APU is, but if it is a physically big chip, it will be extremely difficult to reflow without specialist tools and procedures.

You can check out 'Louis Rossman' videos on YouTube to see if he shows how to do large chips.. I did see for PlayStation repairs, full-blown ovens are used for similar repairs, to get the heat energy to the whole of the large chips aluminium reflective covered baffles protect the rest of the PCB.

Another option could involve a pre-heater. With no experience myself on anything larger than 1cm2, so take this opinion with a pinch of salt, I think chances are near-zero with a large chip and just a low-cost handheld hot air tool.

Even at 1cm2 I use a pre-heater, since my handheld hot air tool is only a few hundred watts. What IC are you referring to?

If you're referring to the APU large chip , there's no hope without specialist equipment, to remove and replace that. We're talking the cost of multiple Xbox units.

I am talking about the controller chip highlighted there i think its the pic you sent couple of posts able. I do not have any voltage when i put red probe on gate and black on resistor.

Hi there ijaved! I forgot about this project. I still have the board sitting in a cabinet in my work room. It is quite possible it has failed.

They are very delicate inside despite the fact that they work on huge currents. I used the PSU to power a video card on one of those M.

Did you managed to fix it? I have thr same problem and going througb the same path apart from replacing all the mosfets and capacitors Hey guys if you guys make a request to iCustomiPhone on Youtube he will find the problem right away I'm having the same issue if we get at least 5 people telling him to make a video.

I just recently purchased an XBox One S off ebay that had water damage. I was attempting to repair it when much to my surprise, someone had already had a go at it and butchered it up a bit.

Watching some videos on youtube i came to the conclusion having a power supply that has current limit ability is invaluable. It makes it very nice to track down shorts and fix them.

My issue however is a bit worse than yours. Checking the voltages, I have 12v, 5v, 3. The board was shorted at the connector where the front panel connects power, eject, etc go.

It was so badly damaged that I cannot tell what voltages are supposed to be present there. I was "hoping" this post is still somewhat active and someone can assist in these measurements?

We may very well have a similar issue, but until I can repair what has been trashed, I dont know what is causing my issue. If someone would be super kind, and if possible, could someone tell me what voltages should be present on that connector at the bottom middle of the board, on Pin 8, and 7?

This is where my board short was and I had to dig out the rot. Now I am left is a mess and need to connect the connectors to what ever power they were getting so I can see what else may be wrong.

If I can get this working, I will post the solution, and just maybe it will solve the OP issue. I really hope its not the APU.

I have a similar issue with my Xbox One S, basically the fault was the mosfet on phase line 3, i was getting a reading of only 0.

After i replaced the suspect mosfet i tested with the MM again but i was getting the exact same reading 0.

Any ideas why this might be? My only thoughts would be a short elsewhere on the board. I know mine looks like it had minor water damage.

Maybe it had been shorted somewhere along the way. I tried testing the resistors around the mosfet chip on the other 2 phase lines which had correct readings for the mosfet to get an idea of what the resistor readings should be and then i tested the resistors on the bad mosfet phase line and they game me the same results as those on the 2 good phase lines, so i dont think its the resistors that are bad.

I also doubt its the coil on each of the phase lines big black box type thing as essentially there just coils of wire. Im not sure what else to check, if it is a short else where it has to be a component before the mosfet i guess.

Yeah this is a super hard one. I put it down a long time ago. Maybe I should fiddle with it again. I have new MSOFET chips but I may have done other damage to my board by messing around and without schematics or an oscilloscope I am really flying blind.

Hey im having the same issue but mine had a orange soda spilled on it. The edges where the copper is has dark brown spots on it.

Same noises and fan situation as yours, even changed power supplies and still the same thing. What do you think about that? I had a similar issue with an Xbox one s that I was repairing for my son's friend, the Xbox had no display due to bent pins in the hdmi port, I replaced the port , retested and had flashing display with artifacts, so I replaced the hdmi retimer IC.

The first IC did nothing,checked my work and found bridged pins on the port, and some connections not making under the chip.

All the voltages and grounds were present at the IC accept the operation enable pin will see 3. This time the Xbox will power itself off after two seconds.

I went about checking resistances to ground and found all the caps under the CPU shorted to ground and other caps with low resistance to ground same as what's happening with the above Xbox, the test point for GFCORE read 0.

This thing would also stay on for a couple of minutes without the hard drive connected. I thought to myself that I didn't really touch anything apart from the port and the retimer IC and I watched people on YouTube hamfisting these clamps on and off.

In the end I put on a third retimer module thinking it was a waste of time, but to my surprise it all worked I and my son played a few hours of FIFA football on it to test, then I handed it back.

I bought a Xbox One S with the same exact problem. Interestingly though when I plug in the power adapter I get a fan twitch 3 or 4 times then it just stops.

When I try to turn it on the light comes on but then goes straight off. I checked all the mosfets and they are all reading correctly and as far as I can see there are no shorts on the board.

I am thinking that the problem is the APU. I tried turning it on again but this time I put a significant amount of pressure on the APU and then I got fanspin for a few seconds before it shut off again.

If you need to know where the sticks are reading just use html5gamepad tester. Does not take analog measurements or Xbox One specific reading like whether headphones are plugged in, chatbox attached,etc.

Better use the one that comes with your windows OS. This program only tells you if a button has been pressed or not. No X,Y,Z axis values. Stay informed about special deals, the latest products, events, and more from Microsoft Store.

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Erste Meinung verfassen.

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Also, you'll find some engineers ask a lot of seemingly obvious questions like "was the hard drive checked" - because they do not know you, and from experience plenty of people say things like "I checked everything" when clearly they have not.

I'm not suggesting that is you - I'm suggesting that I have no way of knowing, so sometimes people ask twice, in different ways.

My experience level with electronics is pretty basic but I did take the time to research common XBOX problems before I started removing parts.

I think I am ready to go buy some parts and see if I can make any difference with this thing. I'm having fun here so I want to keep trying to fix this thing.

Those are the parts I know of. To figure out what a surface mount capacitor is if it's unmarked, would it make sense to remove a few of them and average the capacitance value of them?

Are they polarized if they are not marked? I can make note of how they're connected to ensure I test the right polarity with them removed from the board.

I can then replace those too and make sure everything is within spec. Unfortunately I only have general info, I don't know what others would do, but I would assume all resistors are working, unless I knew the board may have been bent, or if there was discoloration - I've never seen a resistor fail otherwise.

But if you wish to replace or test it first, out-of-circuit measurement should match to within a few percent of the marking on it some tiny resistors will have no marking.

The last digit is usually the number of zeros to add to the previous digits. For surface-mount capacitors, those are ceramic types, and they don't fail in operation either, although they can definitely fail if cracked, e.

I believe that is far more likely with tiny capacitors, i. The largest ones in the photo may be anything from 1uF to 10uF or something, but it's a huge guess, and any IC datasheet for the DC-DC converter circuit should be checked.

Probably the voltage rating for them is 6. The smaller capacitors I have no idea, it would be too much guesswork, they could be nF or 10nF or anything else, and it needs the IC datasheet to be consulted, or a known working one to be measured.

Sometimes that is luck, since the entire part number won't be marked on the IC - so google may help on that, or if anyone has a components list in that area.

Also, those capacitors are likely of type 'X7R'. Often the larger ones are not cheap. If you think one is faulty, then the capacitance of a known working one could be measured out-of-circuit since the three DC-DC converter circuits look identical - they are just set at different voltages.

The capacitors are likely identical value, to reduce BoM costs. From what I can tell, I might have jumped the gun guessing a power issue.

It might have been doing a boot loop due to the APU needing to be reflowed. I tried to do that, but I didn't give it much heat and it may have failed to reflow the solder.

It may be the APU actually dead, but that's pretty rare. Others on the Internet seem to think it's APU related. Have you given up on this project?

I get these in all the time and while quite often they are fixable, sometimes they aren't. Just wondering if you ever figured out the problem for sure.

Let me know if you get a chance. I don't know what the APU is, but if it is a physically big chip, it will be extremely difficult to reflow without specialist tools and procedures.

You can check out 'Louis Rossman' videos on YouTube to see if he shows how to do large chips.. I did see for PlayStation repairs, full-blown ovens are used for similar repairs, to get the heat energy to the whole of the large chips aluminium reflective covered baffles protect the rest of the PCB.

Another option could involve a pre-heater. With no experience myself on anything larger than 1cm2, so take this opinion with a pinch of salt, I think chances are near-zero with a large chip and just a low-cost handheld hot air tool.

Even at 1cm2 I use a pre-heater, since my handheld hot air tool is only a few hundred watts. What IC are you referring to? If you're referring to the APU large chip , there's no hope without specialist equipment, to remove and replace that.

We're talking the cost of multiple Xbox units. I am talking about the controller chip highlighted there i think its the pic you sent couple of posts able.

I do not have any voltage when i put red probe on gate and black on resistor. Hi there ijaved! I forgot about this project. I still have the board sitting in a cabinet in my work room.

It is quite possible it has failed. They are very delicate inside despite the fact that they work on huge currents.

I used the PSU to power a video card on one of those M. Did you managed to fix it? I have thr same problem and going througb the same path apart from replacing all the mosfets and capacitors Hey guys if you guys make a request to iCustomiPhone on Youtube he will find the problem right away I'm having the same issue if we get at least 5 people telling him to make a video.

I just recently purchased an XBox One S off ebay that had water damage. I was attempting to repair it when much to my surprise, someone had already had a go at it and butchered it up a bit.

Watching some videos on youtube i came to the conclusion having a power supply that has current limit ability is invaluable.

It makes it very nice to track down shorts and fix them. My issue however is a bit worse than yours. Checking the voltages, I have 12v, 5v, 3.

The board was shorted at the connector where the front panel connects power, eject, etc go. It was so badly damaged that I cannot tell what voltages are supposed to be present there.

I was "hoping" this post is still somewhat active and someone can assist in these measurements? We may very well have a similar issue, but until I can repair what has been trashed, I dont know what is causing my issue.

If someone would be super kind, and if possible, could someone tell me what voltages should be present on that connector at the bottom middle of the board, on Pin 8, and 7?

This is where my board short was and I had to dig out the rot. Now I am left is a mess and need to connect the connectors to what ever power they were getting so I can see what else may be wrong.

If I can get this working, I will post the solution, and just maybe it will solve the OP issue. I really hope its not the APU.

I have a similar issue with my Xbox One S, basically the fault was the mosfet on phase line 3, i was getting a reading of only 0.

After i replaced the suspect mosfet i tested with the MM again but i was getting the exact same reading 0.

Any ideas why this might be? My only thoughts would be a short elsewhere on the board. I know mine looks like it had minor water damage.

Maybe it had been shorted somewhere along the way. I tried testing the resistors around the mosfet chip on the other 2 phase lines which had correct readings for the mosfet to get an idea of what the resistor readings should be and then i tested the resistors on the bad mosfet phase line and they game me the same results as those on the 2 good phase lines, so i dont think its the resistors that are bad.

I also doubt its the coil on each of the phase lines big black box type thing as essentially there just coils of wire. Im not sure what else to check, if it is a short else where it has to be a component before the mosfet i guess.

Yeah this is a super hard one. I put it down a long time ago. Maybe I should fiddle with it again. I have new MSOFET chips but I may have done other damage to my board by messing around and without schematics or an oscilloscope I am really flying blind.

Hey im having the same issue but mine had a orange soda spilled on it. The edges where the copper is has dark brown spots on it. Same noises and fan situation as yours, even changed power supplies and still the same thing.

What do you think about that? I had a similar issue with an Xbox one s that I was repairing for my son's friend, the Xbox had no display due to bent pins in the hdmi port, I replaced the port , retested and had flashing display with artifacts, so I replaced the hdmi retimer IC.

The first IC did nothing,checked my work and found bridged pins on the port, and some connections not making under the chip. All the voltages and grounds were present at the IC accept the operation enable pin will see 3.

This time the Xbox will power itself off after two seconds. I went about checking resistances to ground and found all the caps under the CPU shorted to ground and other caps with low resistance to ground same as what's happening with the above Xbox, the test point for GFCORE read 0.

This thing would also stay on for a couple of minutes without the hard drive connected. I thought to myself that I didn't really touch anything apart from the port and the retimer IC and I watched people on YouTube hamfisting these clamps on and off.

In the end I put on a third retimer module thinking it was a waste of time, but to my surprise it all worked I and my son played a few hours of FIFA football on it to test, then I handed it back.

I bought a Xbox One S with the same exact problem. Interestingly though when I plug in the power adapter I get a fan twitch 3 or 4 times then it just stops.

When I try to turn it on the light comes on but then goes straight off. I checked all the mosfets and they are all reading correctly and as far as I can see there are no shorts on the board.

I am thinking that the problem is the APU. Available to United States residents. By clicking sign up, I agree that I would like information, tips, and offers about Microsoft Store and other Microsoft products and services.

Privacy Statement. This site uses cookies for analytics, personalized content and ads. By continuing to browse this site, you agree to this use.

Learn more. Xbox One Controller Tester. Wish list. See System Requirements. Available on Xbox One PC. Description Just a simple app to test the buttons and sticks on your Xbox one controller Show More.

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Xbox One Test Chip Ein Meisterstück der Xbox-Ingenieure

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